A Meatless Miracle

T he way Hanukkah is celebrated today is relatively new," says Gil Marks, a rabbi, historian, self-taught chef, playwright, and cookbook author. "Throughout history, Hanukkah was a relatively minor festival, but it's become very popular in America, due to its proximity to Christmas." Since Hanukkah lacks the food-centered traditions of Rosh Hashanah or Yom Kippur, it can be tricky to prepare a festive feast for the celebration—which falls in a season that calls for hearty food and family gatherings.

Fortunately, Marks has some menu ideas that reach beyond the usual potato latkes. His book Olive Trees and Honey is a James Beard Award-winning collection of meatless recipes from Jewish communities around the world. While Marks isn't a vegetarian himself—"I get a yen for a nice prime rib now and then"—he finds that vegetarian cuisine "can be more lively, interesting, and certainly more healthy."

His traditional vegetarian recipes add some new flavors to the Hanukkah table, and the absence of meat makes it possible to include dairy products and still keep kosher. After all, cheese carries historical significance—as do fried foods, seasonal ingredients, and doughnuts. Marks explains the story behind each of his suggested additions to the Hanukkah spread:

Fried Fare

The eight-day celebration of Hanukkah commemorates the triumphant revolt of the Hasmoneans, also known as the Maccabees, against their Syrian-Greek oppressors, who were attempting to wipe out Judaism. When the Jews recovered their desecrated temple, they found a vial filled with just enough olive oil to last one day, but when they lit their candelabra, the flame burned for eight days. In celebration of the miraculous oil, fried foods are central to Hanukkah fare. This year, mix up your latkes with Marks's irresistible Sephardic Spinach Patties.

The Big Cheese

Marks, a natural storyteller, recounts a scene from one of the books of the Apocrypha called Judith, which is associated with the Hasmonean revolt. When an Israeli community is invaded by the Babylonians, a seemingly innocuous Jewish hostess becomes a heroine. "Judith, a comely young lady, serves the Babylonian general cheese and wine," Marks explains. "The cheese makes him thirsty, and when she gets him good and drunk, she cuts off his head and his army runs away." A cheese course or Central European Cheese Dumplings—preferably served without the story's dramatic conclusion—would make another fine addition to a Hanukkah feast.

Seasonal Delights

Seasonal ingredients were involved in all ancient festivals and also play an important part in the modern Hanukkah meal. "When the winter set in," Marks explains, "farmers used to kill all their unneeded animals, and there would be a conflux of beef dishes—beef-stuffed pastries, fried beef, and brisket." Beef is a traditional main course option, but if you want to avoid mixing meat with the cheese dumplings (or a cheese course), add a few extra vegetarian dishes to the table instead. Fill out the meal with some roasted root vegetables and Marks's savory Syrian Pumpkin Patties, which make wonderful use of winter squash.